£9 for a 10 minute bus ride? I thought the driver had misheard me so I repeated our destination, Milford-on-Sea. Yes, the figure was correct; £2.50 per child and £4 per adult for a single fare. It would have been cheaper to get a taxi, and quicker given the bus was running 25 minutes late. With gritted teeth I paid the fare and made a mental note to avoid buses in future.
Fortunately we’d had a better experience with the train. Taking advantage of our family railcard and off peak travel I’d planned a trip to Hurst Castle, a spectacularly located castle overlooking the Solent and Isle of Wight. It’s possible to walk to Hurst Castle from Lymington railway station but I thought the short bus ride to Milford would allow a linear walk and reduce mileage.
My mood lightened a little as we left Milford-on-Sea and attempted to run up and over the shingle bank which heads out to Hurst Castle. Easier said than done as the pebbles slipped away under our feet and wind blew hair and sea spray across our faces. Across the Solent we could see The Needles, glistening white against the clouds.
It’s a 1.5 mile walk out along the shingle to Hurst Castle. It was surprisingly hard walking along the top of the spit, even with a stiff breeze blowing us along. After a few minutes we admitted defeat and dropped down to the sheltered side of the bank, away from the waves and wind. We walked beside the mud flats and salt marsh; they’re a haven for waders and wildfowl although the only bird I recognised was an egret.
As we walked Hurst Castle slowly came into focus. It’s a strange looking building, more of a fort really, with destructive gun batteries and protective lighthouses alongside each other.
Hurst Castle
The castle was built by Henry VIII to guard the western approach of the Solent and help protect the ports of Southampton and Portsmouth. Despite the threat of invasion the castle saw little action for much of its early history although it was used to imprison Charles I in 1648. Significant renovations and the addition of armaments were completed during the Napoleonic Wars. However life at the castle remained uneventful. Further modifications took place throughout the Victorian era and up to the end of the Second World War.
Entering via the guard room we first explored the early part of the castle. The Tudor tower housed the garrison and marks on the floor outline the living accommodation. The roof, originally used as a gun tower, nowadays offers great views across the marshes and the Solent.
The original Tudor castle sits between two large wing batteries which were added between 1861 and 1874. Later in the week we visited the Isle of Wight and it’s only after seeing the castle from the seaward side that you really appreciate the positioning and structure of the building.
We continued our explorations of the remainder of the castle. We walked up and down stairs, searched nooks and crannies and balanced along old railway tracks. The two lighthouses shown above no longer work. Instead the Hurst Point lighthouse fulfils their role and there’s a small exhibition in the castle about them.
Before we left, and in the interest of research, we felt obliged to pop into the cafe for a drink. We’d already eaten our picnic but the food looked good and the cakes tempting.
Return to Lymington
I had planned to catch the ferry back from the castle through the marshes to Keyhaven but it was a busy summer day and the queue was long. In case you’re wondering, the term ‘ferry’ is probably a little optimistic. Think small boat with room for about 10 people rather than Isle of Wight Red Funnel car ferry!
There also appeared to be a drama happening in one of the channels as a boat was stuck in the mud. Our boat was called into action to rescue the passengers and take them back to Keyhaven. At this point I decided it was quicker to walk back rather than wait another 20 minutes for the next ferry. Fortunately the wind had dropped since the morning, making it a less arduous walk.
Our walk back to Lymington took us past more mudflats, the boats of Keyhaven Yacht Club and clouds of butterflies. I’d under-estimated how long it would take to walk this final stretch and we had to run to reach the railway station in time for our train. We arrived sweaty and hot with a couple of minutes to spare.
We really enjoyed Hurst Castle but if you plan to visit I would definitely suggest walking one way from Lymington or Keyhaven and using the ferry service as this looked like a fun way to travel.
More info:
- Hurst Castle is open daily from the end of March to the end of October. Check the English Heritage website for exact dates and times.
- The ferry runs every 20 minutes between Keyhaven and Hurst Castle during castle opening times. A single ticket costs £3.50 for adults, £2.50 for children.
What a fabulous adventure! We’ve not been to Hurst Castle. Must add it to my list. We’ve been to IOW a few times, and pass through the area. Really should build in some time to explore next time. It looks like you chose a blustery day.
I’ve been to the IOW too but for some reason hadn’t noticed Hurst Castle back on the mainland before. We put this right later in the week and I really don’t know how I’d missed it!
Woah! It’s no wonder we drive everywhere when that’s how much a short bus trip is.
Such a lovely place to visit, I’m a huge fan of the area. I’ve actually spent a day exploring Hurst Castle. We took the boat, had a fab time exploring. Returned by boat and the world had pretty much changed. People rushed to the boat to tell us the news. The date September 11th 2001.
Every year I insist we’ll make it back to Hampshire with the children, next year I really will try harder.
Oh wow, I can just imagine that it’s a memorable place for you. I was in Snowdonia the same day on a mountain leaders course and remember hearing the news as soon as we arrived back at our base.
Quite a history to the castle dating right back to the times of Henry V111. That is quite a walk you wonder took an it sounds like all your exercise for the day in one go, so unimpressed you managed to grab a few photos as well as racing for the train. The boats look really pretty moored up there and the ferry one way sounds like a good tip. Thank you for sharing with me on Country Kids.
Ah yes, the race for the train was rather stressful. And hot 🙂
I’ve done that walk, but a long time ago, somewhere we should revisit with our son at some point #CountryKids
Choose a day when it’s not too windy, or at least make sure you walk one way when the wind is behind you! (And get the ferry the other way).
Buses are really expensive nowadays!
This place looks amazing. My fave are the lighthouses! I havent seen one and its my dream to see one. And this place has lots!
#countrykids
You’ll have to go to Burnham-on-Sea. Quite near you I think and with lighthouses!
I find the shape of the castle quite peculiar ! The beach looks very inviting and you’ve been very lucky with the weather 🙂
Definitely more fort than castle shape I think.
My parents caravan is in Milford on sea and I remember the long hard walk many years ago when we did it. I really must take my children some time, I think they might like it now.
That’s a great childhood memory, hope you manage the walk soon!
Another great castle! I am always fascinated by Henry VIII’s history 😀 Would love to visit this one.
Thank you for linking up with #MondayEscapes
He was a busy man, not sure how he managed to fit all the wives in:-)
There’s some really unusual fortifications around this part of the world, looks a great one to visit – although ouch, that’s an expensive bus ride! #countrykids #mondayescapes
Tell me about it. I’m getting a taxi next time!
This sounds like a real adventure! Can’t believe the cost of the bus, but it was worth it. I think we went here when I was a child (have been some photos) but I can’t remember any of it. I’d like to go back…
I’d definitely do it differently if we visited again as I’d love to take the ferry but was a good adventure.
Awesome place to visit, and great tip about the bus!
Thanks Crysta.
I have never been to the IOW, how awful! The landscape looks gorgeous, a photographer’s dream! 🙂
Ah, the castle is on the mainland but looks out over the Isle of Wight. We visited IOW the following week though!
LOVE that first photo – what a great shot! Buses are a rips-off, esp when you add up everyone’s ticket, it’s ridiculous. Still, worth it, as your photos are beautiful – Hurst Castle, I shall keep that in mind if we are ever that side of the country! Sabrina xx #mondayescapes
I think we were the only ones who paid for tickets on the bus. It was full but everyone else was a pensioner using their free bus pass (which my mum loves!).